Day 7 (August 11, 2021): Fajas

After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we set out to explore the extreme northwestern tip of Sao Jorge. After taking in a faja on the north coast, we returned to Velas to take in the sights there and have lunch. Then we worked our way down the coast and up through the mountains (on a horrible road that we thought would render us a flat tire — or four!) to reach Norte Grande, another stunning faja, where we finally took the plunge and swam in the Atlantic. Then we made our way back to Velas for a late afternoon refreshment and dinner before taking in the sunset with a glass of Sao Jorge wine at our hotel. Tomorrow we spend the day on Terciera Island and head home to Canada from there, late in the afternoon. Where has the week gone!

This is Sao Jorge Island. From the start of our trip planning, for ease, we referred to it as “cigar island”. I’m sure you can understand why!

The island is 55 km long and seven km wide at its widest point, making it the fourth largest island in the Archipelago. Approximately 9000 people live on Sao Jorge, which is equivalent to 3.5% of the population of the Azores.

Sao Jorge has over 200 volcanoes. This Google Maps photo shows how the spine of the island, which is long and slender, comprises a line of volcanic craters.

The AtlanticoLine ferry, leaving Velas for Madalena on Pico Island this morning. These ferries are the lifeline of residents, carrying them from one island to the next

The relaxing view from the patio of our hotel restaurant, as we ate breakfast this morning.

The tall trees of Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes. 

At Parque Florestal das Sete Fontes, there is a re-creation of an installation showing how codfish were salted, as well as a ceramic artistic depiction of the process.



The extreme northwestern tip of Sao Jorge island.

The lighthouse at Rosais on the northwestern tip of Sao Jorge was built in 1958, but was abandoned as a manned station after the 1964 earthquake.

This is the whalers’ lookout at Rosais on the northwestern tip. It ceased to be used after the end of the whaling industry in the early 1980s.

Sao Jorge is best known for a geological feature called faja. Fajas are found all around the island. Due to the extremely high nature of the coastline, either lava poured down the cliffs into the sea or landslides did similar, both creating flat land areas which became the location of settlements.  You can imagine how difficult it is to access these communities. Each has a series of switchbacks down the cliffside - many of which are 300-400m high - to access them. Here you see Faja Joao Dias. 

The gate to Velas, at the village's port.

The main square in Velas 

Church of Matriz das Velas.

Jardim da Republica (Garden of the Republic) in Velas boasts a fine bandstand and a very unique budgie bird sanctuary. 



The modern municipal auditorium in Velas. 

The “arco” (arch) in Velas. 

Ermida de NS do Livramento in Velas. 

One thing we remembered from our last trip to the Azores, and have enjoyed on this trip as well, is a plate of cheese, bread, olives and honey as an appetizer. Sao Jorge is well known for its fine cheese, Which has a 500 year history.

Velas from the heights above. Ferry towns often have poor reputations and are not the most attractive places. Velas truly is an exception. It is an incredible little town.


The impressive faja at Norte Grande on Sao Jorge’s north coast. The switchbacks getting down to there were crazy!

Lava pillars in Norte Grande. 

I don't think we have seen a village on any of the three islands that did not have a piscina naturalis (natural pool). We finally took the plunge this afternoon at the excellent natural pool in Norte Grande.  And they are certainly well used in every community, both for swimming and for sunbathing.

Church in Norte Grande. 

Another example of an Azorean communal water tap. Every village has at least one. This one dates from 1878.

We had a late afternoon Galao (espresso and milk) and Portuguese custard tarts (Pasteis de Nata) in Velas. Those tarts are amazing!

As we were sitting in the café, we realized that the porcelain depiction behind Pam told the history of the 1964 earthquake in this part of Sao Jorge.  

Our hotel (the white cluster of structures) is located on what seemed to us to be a faja but wasn’t identified as such. 

We started the day with a view of the AtlanticoLine ferry to Madalena. We end the day with another view of the same ferry on its last run to Madalena.